The Mapex 500 double bass drum pedal is a mid‑range double‑kick option that targets rehearsals, small gigs, and players moving from beginner to intermediate levels. It balances durable hardware with adjustable features so you can shape feel and response without an extreme price tag.
Who the Mapex 500 suits
If you play rock or metal and need a pedal that survives regular practice and weekend gigs, the Mapex 500 is built to keep up. It fits players who want solid power for chunky grooves, reasonable rebound for faster patterns, and enough adjustability to learn technique. Expect a pedal that trades pro‑level refinements for durability and straightforward setup.
First impressions: build quality, materials, and portability
Construction uses stamped steel for the base and frame, with standard steel rods and a detachable connecting bar; that’s sturdy and repairable. The pedal is heavier than ultra‑light pro models but light enough to toss in a gig bag. You’ll notice solid clamps and a reinforced footboard hinge—good signs for repeated setups. Carry it as part of a small kit without a road case and you’ll be fine for backline or club work.
Key selling points and limitations
Strengths: robust clamps, serviceable linkage, and easy spare‑part sourcing. Limitations: fewer factory bearing upgrades and less ultra‑quick responsiveness than high‑end direct‑drive units. Set expectations accordingly: the Mapex 500 is reliable and adjustable, not a boutique speed machine out of the box.
Mechanical DNA: drive system, cam, footboard and how they shape feel
Drive type controls response. Chain drives give a balanced mix of power and rebound. Strap drives feel springier and smoother; direct drives are fastest and most immediate. To check your Mapex 500, look where the footboard connects to the cam: a visible metal chain means chain drive; a flat nylon band means strap; a solid shaft with no intermediary means direct.
Cam geometry and footboard length control leverage. Longer footboards favor smooth power transfer and a wider “sweet spot”; shorter boards favor fast heel‑toe movement. A rounded cam produces progressive acceleration; an offset cam gives a punching, immediate hit. Experiment: move the beater and see where the pedal feels most responsive—that’s your sweet spot.
Linkage and the slave mechanism matter for sync. A rigid link bar with tight universal joints minimizes latency between pedals. Excess play in the link or worn universal joints causes dead time and uneven hits. Tighten the bar and inspect joints for slop if you notice timing drift between feet.
Setup essentials: step‑by‑step tweaks to dial in comfort
Start with a baseline: medium spring tension, beater angle around 45 degrees, and the footboard flat to the hoop. From there, tune for technique.
Spring tension: increase tension for heel‑up power and faster recovery; decrease for heel‑down control and smoother doubles. Make single changes at a time and play a 1‑minute pattern to test.
Beater angle and shaft height: closer to the drum for stronger attack; pulled back for more rebound and less initial click. Small moves matter—change in 3–5 mm increments and re‑test.
Align the connecting bar so both beaters hit the same spot on the hoop. For thin hoops, move the clamp forward slightly and use a pad or foam under the clamp to prevent slippage. For thick hoops, ensure the clamp grips the rim lip fully; add a thin rubber strip if you feel rotation during blasts.
Touring vs home checklist: touring—carry a hard or padded case, spare spring, spare beater, extra clamp screw, and a multi‑tool; home—keep a small rag, light oil, and a replacement chain or strap on hand.
Sound shaping: beaters, materials, and how the pedal affects tone
Beater material alters attack dramatically. Felt gives warm low end and softer click. Hard plastic or wood increases beater definition and beater click—use that to cut through heavy mixes. Hybrid beaters (felt one side, plastic the other) let you switch tones quickly on the same pedal.
Pedal mechanics interact with drum damping. If you want a tight, articulate double‑kick, pair a harder beater with minimal internal muffling near the beater strike. If you need boom with less click, use a softer beater and add internal padding away from the beater to keep attack but tame resonance.
To reduce unwanted beater click: move the beater slightly toward the center of the drum or soften the beater face. To emphasize stick definition for metal, inch the beater toward the hoop and use a firmer beater—tiny changes change clarity a lot.
Playability and technique: adapting your technique to the pedal’s response
Match technique to the pedal: for the Mapex 500, heel‑up will give you the punch it handles well; heel‑down gives control for low‑tempo groove. Work heel‑toe and sliding techniques to get speed without losing power.
Speed building exercises: start with single strokes at a comfortable BPM and add 4 BPM after you hit 8 bars clean. Use 10‑second max‑effort doubles and rest 20 seconds; repeat 6 times. Track progress by logging top clean BPM once per week.
Coordination drills: play paradiddle patterns with alternating singles and doubles on the bass pedals. Example: R L R R / L R L L mapped to feet—slow and precise, then gradually raise tempo. For uneven dynamics, practice volume control by alternating strong and soft doubles in a 1:1 pattern for 60 seconds.
Maintenance, common wear points, and simple repairs
Regular maintenance: wipe down grime after sessions, lubricate pivot points with a light machine oil every month of heavy use, and inspect chain/strap tension weekly if gigging. Tighten loose bolts and make sure the clamp teeth are clean for secure grip.
Common wear signs: squeaks at pivot points, stretched chain or strap, sagging spring, and play in universal joints. Fixes: apply oil to squeaks, replace a stretched strap or chain, swap springs if tension drops, and tighten or replace worn joints. Always pack a spare chain/strap and a spare spring for gigs.
Replace vs repair: if the footboard hinge has metal fatigue or the cam is cracked, replacement is usually cheaper than repair. If only the chain/strap or bearings are worn, replacing those parts will extend life substantially at low cost.
Upgrades, mods, and aftermarket parts that improve performance
High‑impact upgrades: switch to precision sealed bearings for smoother rotation, swap to a stiffer spring for more snap, and try different beaters to match genres. A ball‑bearing hinge kit transforms feel more than many other single mods.
Aftermarket options include low‑play linkage joints and replacement cams with different profiles. Some players add thin anti‑slip tape under the clamp or a custom footboard pad for comfort. Before buying anything, check shaft diameter, clamp dimensions, and cam mount types for compatibility with the Mapex 500.
Compatibility notes: measure the beater shaft diameter and clamp thickness, confirm link bar length and joint type, and check whether a replacement cam uses the same mounting holes. If specs don’t match, adapters or custom parts may be required.
Troubleshooting checklist — fast fixes for gig‑night problems
Problem: pedal slipping on hoop. Quick fix: add a folded towel or rubber pad under the clamp, tighten the clamp, and secure with gaffer tape if needed. Zip ties around clamp and hoop can buy time.
Problem: uneven action or latency. Check link bar tightness and universal joints first. If the slave pedal lags, tighten link bolts and inspect for bent rods. A temporary on‑stage fix is to tighten the linkage slightly and play at reduced intensity until proper repair.
Problem: rattles or missing rebound. Tighten all screws, oil pivots, and check that the beater is seated properly. If the spring has lost tension, use a spare spring or a temporary elastic strap to restore action until you can replace it.
Test synchronization by holding one pedal and moving the other through full travel—both beaters should return and settle at the same position without wobble. If not, isolate the offending unit: swap link bars or remove the slave to test main pedal alone.
Side‑by‑side comparison framework: Mapex 500 vs other double pedals
Compare on these axes: price, drive feel (chain/strap/direct), durability, adjustability (spring, cam options), portability, and target player level. Focus on feel, not just specs. A long footboard and sealed bearings often feel more responsive than a short board with loose pivots, even if both list similar materials.
Interpret spec sheets with context: footboard length, cam type, bearing presence, and clamp design matter more in use than advertised weight. Try to play a pedal before buying or request a video sample of live play to judge feel.
For budget options look for simple, sturdy chain or strap systems and replaceable parts. For pro‑grade options, seek sealed bearings, multiple cam profiles, and lightweight alloys. For ultra‑fast needs, direct‑drive designs and minimal play in joints are the priority.
Buying guide: new vs used, warranty, and inspection checklist
For used Mapex 500 pedals, inspect play feel for smooth travel, check for chain stretch or strap fraying, test spring tension and look for rust, and check linkage for wobble. Verify the clamp teeth and the beater shaft for bends. Ask to hear the pedal in use to detect hidden squeaks.
Price expectations: used units should be discounted for worn chains, missing parts, or cosmetic damage. New units come with manufacturer or dealer warranty—confirm warranty terms and whether parts like springs and beaters are covered.
Negotiation tips: factor in the cost of replacement chains, springs, and beaters. Use visible wear as leverage. Red flags: seized bearings, cracked cams, bent beater shafts, or missing serial numbers that suggest aftermarket swaps or collision damage.
Recording and live mic’ing techniques for double bass with the Mapex 500
Mic placement: an interior mic near the beater strike captures attack and articulation. An outside mic or a low‑frequency condenser 1–2 feet from the shell captures body and boom. Blend the two to control click versus low‑end.
Processing starting points: use a fast attack on compression to tame peaks and a medium release to preserve groove. Gate aggressively to cut bleed but leave just enough tail for natural feel. EQ—slight boost around 60–100 Hz for weight, cut 300–500 Hz if boxy, and add 3–6 kHz for beater click if you need presence.
Triggers and samples: use triggers if you need consistent modern tones; blend triggered samples with the mic signal for natural character. For monitoring during practice, a steady click at low volume helps build endurance and timing without masking the drum tone.
Practical practice plans and groove ideas
Weekly routine: Day 1—warm‑ups and single‑stroke accuracy (20 minutes); Day 2—double patterns and control (20 minutes); Day 3—speed work with short bursts (15 minutes); Day 4—endurance sets at target tempo (20 minutes); Day 5—musical application and grooves (30 minutes). Rest or light review on other days.
30‑day speed build: pick a comfortable 16th‑note tempo, increase 5 BPM per week while keeping 90% clarity. Track top clean tempo each week. Six‑week endurance plan: increase continuous play time for doubles from 30 seconds to 3 minutes in progressive steps, adding 15–30 seconds each week.
Genre patterns: for punk/metal chugging, focus on strong downbeats with tight doubles on the “and” counts. For blast patterns, practice short accelerations and immediate deceleration. Use metronome subdivisions to lock foot timing with hand patterns.
Resources, spare parts sources, and community troubleshooting
Find OEM Mapex parts through Mapex dealers and verified online retailers; keep part numbers or model IDs handy when ordering. Quality aftermarket suppliers offer sealed bearing kits, replacement chains/straps, and specialized beaters—check compatibility before purchase.
Useful communities: dedicated drum forums, subreddits focused on drumming, and instruction channels that post model‑specific setup and teardown videos. Use the pedal’s serial and model info to pull the correct manual and parts diagram for accurate repairs or upgrades.
Carry these spares for gigs: extra beater(s), a spare spring, a short length of strong tape or zip ties, and a small multi‑tool to tighten clamps and linkage. Those items fix most pedal failures quickly and keep you playing through a set.
